Starlink sells its mounts by dish family. The Standard and Enterprise dishes share one set, and the Mini, the V5 and the Performance each have their own, so the first question is which dish you own. The second is what you are fixing it to.
For the Standard 4 or Standard 4 X, the picks are short. On a sloped shingle roof, buy Starlink’s Pivot Mount ($60). On a wall or the fascia board under the roof edge, buy the Wall Mount ($67). For a metal pole or a J-mount (the bent arm that satellite-TV dishes sit on) you already have, buy the Pipe Adapter ($38). If you will not drill into the roof, the Ridgeline Mount ($250) sits on the peak of the roof under its own weights.
Starlink sells one mount for the V5 home dish, the Home Mount ($40). The Mini’s wall and pivot mounts are $10 each. Every Starlink price on this page was read from Starlink’s public shop page on October 12, 2026, with no account signed in.
Starlink mounts at a glance
| Where the dish goes | Standard 4 / 4 X | Starlink V5 | Starlink Mini | Performance (Gen 3) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sloped roof | Pivot Mount (shingle), $60 | Home Mount, $40 | Mini Pivot Mount (shingle), $10 | Not offered |
| Wall or fascia | Wall Mount, $67 | Home Mount, $40 | Mini Wall Mount, $10 | Wall Mount, $90 |
| Existing pole or J-mount | Pipe Adapter, $38 | Pipe adapter in the box | Pipe adapter in the box | Pipe Adapter, $50 |
| Roof ridge, no drilling | Ridgeline Mount, $250 | Not offered | Not offered | Not offered |
| Ground | Kickstand in the box; X-Frame Base, $75 | Kickstand in the box | Kickstand in the box | Not offered |
| Vehicle, bolted down | Mobility Mount, $10 | Not offered | Mini Mobility Mount, $22 | Wedge Mount, $80; Flat Mount, $90 |
| Vehicle roof rack | Roof Rack Mount, $10 | Not offered | Mini Roof Rack Mount, $27 | Not offered |
Not offered means the shop page for that dish listed no mount of that type on October 12, 2026. A Performance (Gen 3) kit already includes a mount of your choice, so the prices in its column are for a second or replacement mount. Enterprise is a business kit that shares the Standard’s mounts; its shop page was not checked for this guide.
First, check which dish you have
Starlink gives the same warning for three dish families. Standard mounts are “specific to Starlink Standard & Starlink Enterprise (not compatible with other kits).” Mini mounts are “specific to Starlink Mini (not compatible with other kits).” Performance mounts are “specific to Starlink Performance (not compatible with other kits).” The V5 Home Mount is “Compatible with Starlink V5 Kit only.”
So a Standard pivot mount is not made for a Mini, even though Starlink sells a pivot mount for each. If you are not sure which dish is on your roof, the Starlink dish guide identifies each one by shape and size and explains the names.
What is already in the box
Check the box before you buy anything. Three of the four kits covered here include a kickstand, a fold-out leg that props the dish up, and two include a pole adapter.
| Kit | Mounting hardware included |
|---|---|
| Standard 4 / 4 X | A detachable kickstand |
| Starlink Mini | A detachable kickstand, plus the Mini Pipe Adapter and Flat Mount |
| Starlink V5 | A kickstand and a pipe adapter, which the Home Mount also needs |
| Performance (Gen 3) | Your choice of mount; Starlink’s examples are the Wedge, Flat, Wall and Pipe Adapter |
Starlink says the Standard kit “comes with everything you need to get online, including a detachable Kickstand,” which it describes as good for a quick setup or a permanent installation. If a flat spot with a clear view of the sky exists, the kickstand may be all you need. A mount is for when the only clear view is higher up. For older dishes, Starlink’s advice is to consider “a permanent installation in an elevated location, like a roof, pole, or wall if you cannot avoid obstructions or find a clear field of view from the ground level.” Obstructions are the trees and buildings that block the dish’s view of the sky.
Not every reviewer agrees the kickstand is enough. DISHYtech, a site that reviews Starlink hardware, writes that “the standard base that comes with every Starlink kit is not going to be a permanent solution for most people.”
To take the kickstand off a Standard dish or a Mini, “squeeze the release tab at the back of the mount and pull the kickstand or mount away from Starlink.”
Sloped shingle roof: the Pivot Mount
Starlink calls the Standard Pivot Mount “perfect for installation on slanted, shingled roofs.” The base screws to the roof, and Starlink says the swiveling arm adapts “to various angles and directions.”
The kit includes the mount, two sealant tape squares, two sealant tape strips, two lag screws and 20 cable routing clips. Lag screws are heavy wood screws with a hex head. You supply a drill, a 6 mm (1/4 in) bit, a 9/16 in hex socket, a marker and a level.
It costs $60 and fits the Standard 4, Standard 4 X and Enterprise dishes. The Mini has its own Mini Pivot Mount with the same kit contents for $10.
Shingle is the only roof surface Starlink’s Standard and Mini guides name for the Pivot Mount. For a metal roof, the mount Starlink names is the Ridgeline Mount below. For tile, look at the Wall Mount or a pole.
Wall or fascia: the Wall Mount
The Wall Mount is a long arm for “an exterior wall near the top of the gable or fascia.” The gable is the triangular wall at the end of a pitched roof. The fascia is the board that runs along the roof edge.
The limit to check is your roof overhang, the part of the roof that sticks out past the wall. Starlink lists a 4-inch maximum overhang for the Standard, Mini and Performance wall mounts. A deeper overhang is outside that limit. DISHYtech makes the same point: “If you have a large roof overhang, the official Starlink wall mounts might not work.”
The Standard kit has the mount, silicone, two lag screws and 20 cable routing clips, and it needs the same tools as the Pivot Mount. It costs $67. The Mini Wall Mount is $10 and the Performance Wall Mount is $90.
A wall mount keeps holes out of the roof, and DISHYtech notes that with one “cable routing is a bit easier.” It adds the catch: “Wall mounts aren’t ideal if you have tall trees or other obstructions.”
A pole or a J-mount: the Pipe Adapter
If a metal pole or an old satellite-TV mount is already on the house, the Pipe Adapter lets you reuse it. It clamps the dish to the top of a pipe. The pipe has to be the right width, and for the Standard, V5 and Performance adapters Starlink says it has to be metal.
| Dish | Pole diameter the adapter fits | Adapter |
|---|---|---|
| Standard 4 / 4 X | 31 mm (1.25 in) to 63.5 mm (2.5 in) | Sold separately, $38 |
| Starlink V5 | 31 mm (1.2 in) to 50 mm (2.0 in) | In the box |
| Starlink Mini | 31 mm (1.25 in) to 50 mm (2 in) | In the box |
| Performance (Gen 3) | 38 mm (1.5 in) to 60 mm (2.4 in) | One of the kit’s mount choices; $50 separately |
The Standard, V5 and Performance guides each print a warning in capital letters: the adapter is for metal pipes, not PVC or plastic. PVC is the white plastic pipe used for plumbing. The Standard and V5 guides add that no pipe is included. The Mini guide prints no such warning and does not say what the pole should be made of.
The J-mount route
DISHYtech calls the J-mount “widely available, affordable, and extremely versatile,” and notes that “you might already have an existing J-Mount from another satellite service.” Its advice for most dishes is to “simply pair it with the Starlink Pipe Adapter.”
If you need to buy one, DISHYtech’s top pick is the Proxicast Pro-Grade J-Max. Proxicast lists it as an aluminum base and pole with stainless steel hardware, an 18-inch pole and an outside diameter of 1.5 inches. That is 38.1 mm. By diameter it sits inside the range of each Starlink pipe adapter above, though only just for the Performance adapter, whose range starts at 38 mm. The arm locks at -45, 0 and +45 degrees.
Two cautions come from DISHYtech itself. On where to put one: “Exterior walls or the eave of your roof are ideal locations. You can mount a J-mount directly into your roof, but that should be a last resort due to the potential for leaks.” On height: it calls 18 to 22 inches “the typical mast length for J-mounts,” so a J-mount will not lift a dish far above the roofline. A mast is the short pole the dish sits on.
No drilling: the Ridgeline Mount
The Ridgeline Mount is for a roof you cannot or will not put screws in. Starlink says it “requires no drilling and is designed to sit on the top ridge of a gable roof,” where ballast weights hold it in place. The ridge is the peak where the two slopes of the roof meet, and ballast weights are heavy blocks that hold the mount down.
At $250 it is the most expensive mount on Starlink’s shop pages for the Standard, V5 or Mini. Starlink lists it for the Standard 4, Standard 4 X and Enterprise. Three limits matter before you order:
- Roof type. Starlink says the mount “works great with metal and shingled roofs with slopes less than 45 degrees, but is not recommended for clay tile roofs.”
- Weight. The kit has four ballast weights. Starlink lists the ballast package at 25.3 kg (55.8 lbs) and the mount package at 5.8 kg (12.8 lbs). All of it has to go up a ladder.
- Wind. The guide gives the mount “a wind rating of up to 80 kph (50 mph).” The Standard 4 X spec sheet lists the dish’s operational wind speed as “96 kph+ (60 mph+).” Starlink publishes the two figures in separate documents and does not relate them. Read side by side, the mount’s rating is the lower of the two.
If your area sees gusts past 50 mph, you would be relying on the mount beyond the rating Starlink gives it. The dish ratings for each model are in the wind section of the Starlink snow and weather guide.
On the ground: the kickstand or the X-Frame Base
The kickstand in the Standard, V5 and Mini kits already stands the dish on the ground. Starlink’s $75 X-Frame Base is a second option for a Standard dish: an X-shaped base with a mast and a mast adapter, “designed to support a ground level installation or a quick setup.” Starlink does not say what it does better than the kickstand, so try the kickstand first.
On a vehicle or an RV
For a recreational vehicle (RV), van or truck, Starlink sells two kinds of mount for the Standard and the Mini.
Bolted down: the Mobility Mount. Starlink says the Standard version is “designed to create a waterproof seal and protect against water ingress when permanently mounting to wood, fiberglass, metal, plastic and slotted rails on vehicle racks.” It holds the dish at an 8-degree angle, which Starlink says helps keep a signal in wet weather. It is $10 for the Standard and $22 for the Mini, whose version sits at 9 degrees.
Clamped to a roof rack: the Roof Rack Mount. The Standard version fits rack bars from 15 mm (0.59 in) to 44.5 mm (1.75 in) thick and up to 95 mm (3.74 in) wide, or racks with compatible T-slots, and the dish lifts off when you are not using it. A T-slot is a groove in the bar that a bolt head slides into. It is $10. The Mini version is $27 and fits bars 12 mm (0.47 in) to 48 mm (1.9 in) thick and up to 88 mm (3.5 in) wide. Its guide warns that it is “NOT INTENDED TO BE MOUNTED TO ROUND PROFILE BARS.”
Starlink is plain that these are general mounts: the Standard 4, Standard 4 X and Mini do “not have mounts specific for RVs.” If you only want the dish up while you are parked, the Pipe Adapter on a metal pole is another Starlink-made route.
Whether you may use the dish while driving depends on the dish and the plan, which the dish guide covers. For the Mini in a car, including mounts that sit under a glass roof, see the Starlink Mini accessories guide.
The V5 Home Mount
Starlink sells one mount for the V5. The Home Mount has two pivots, which Starlink says allow “mounting on vertical, sloped, or flat surfaces.” Starlink lists the fascia board and a sloped roof as typical spots for it, so one $40 part covers the jobs that take a separate pivot mount and wall mount on the Standard.
Do not throw away the pipe adapter from the V5 box. Starlink’s setup guide says the Home Mount “Must be used with the Pipe Adapter included in the Starlink V5 kit.” The mount comes with two lag screws, two M6 screws, routing clips and sealant tape.
Performance (Gen 3) mounts
The Performance (Gen 3) sits in the business section of Starlink’s shop, and its kit already “includes your choice of mount (e.g., Wedge Mount, Flat Mount, Wall Mount, Pipe Adapter).”
For a vehicle or boat, the choice is between the Wedge Mount and the Flat Mount. Starlink rates both for “winds up to 280 kmh (174 mph).” The Wedge tilts the dish 8 degrees to shed water. The Flat Mount sits lower at 2 degrees, which Starlink says “is less optimal for maintaining a strong connection if stationary during wet weather.” Unless you need the low profile, take the Wedge.
Replacing an older motorized dish
If a Standard Actuated dish, the older motorized one on a mast, is coming down and a Standard 4 is going up, you may not need a new mount. Starlink sells a $43 adapter that lets a Standard 4 or 4 X sit on a mount made for the Standard Actuated. It is “designed to attach to an existing mount for Standard Actuated kit, without needing to replace the mount.”
The guide lists the old mounts it works with: the Short Wall Mount, Long Wall Mount, Pivot Mount, Ground Pole Mount and Ridgeline Mount.
Starlink recommends it primarily for that case. For anyone “buying a new Standard kit and looking for a new mount,” it recommends “buying a mount designed for the Standard kit, instead of this adapter mount.”
Third-party mounts: what Starlink says
Other makers sell mounts for these same surfaces, sometimes for less. DISHYtech says comparable mounts from Starlink “can cost twice as much as the aftermarket options” it reviews. Starlink allows third-party mounts and does not vouch for them: “While you can use third-party mounting solutions, please note that we cannot guarantee performance or compatibility with non-Starlink hardware.”
It names two things to avoid. The dish has a Global Positioning System (GPS) chip, and Starlink says metal near it may affect performance. In its words, “third-party metal mounts that wrap around the terminal’s base enclosure, or placing the terminal directly on metal, may interfere with GPS performance and are not supported.” It gives the chip’s location too: “the top right back corner of the Starlink.”
That is the test to apply to any third-party mount, including the J-mount above: look at where its metal sits. The same help page adds: “For optimal performance, we recommend using the Starlink mobility mount.”
One gap third-party makers do fill is the flashing mount, a plate that slides under the shingles so the roof sheds water around it. DISHYtech reports that “Starlink used to sell their own flashing mount, but it has been discontinued,” and points to aftermarket versions that pair with a J-mount or the Pivot Mount. None of the four shop pages checked on October 12, 2026 listed a flashing mount.
Before you drill: test the spot
A mount does not fix a bad location. Starlink’s setup guide for the V5 mount says to use “the Obstruction Tool in the Starlink App to ensure your chosen location has a clear view of the sky.”
DISHYtech suggests a longer test where you can manage it: set the dish up on its included base at the spot you have in mind, power it on, and “allow the Starlink app to collect data for at least 12 hours” before you check the app’s obstruction map. Do that before the first screw goes in. If the connection still drops after a clean install, the Starlink disconnection guide works through the other causes.
Starlink also says that although its mounts are designed for self-install, you should “reach out to a roofing or installation professional if you have any questions or do not feel comfortable completing the install yourself.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you need a mount for Starlink?
Not always. The Standard 4, Standard 4 X, V5 and Mini kits each include a kickstand, and Starlink says the Standard and Mini kickstands can be used “for quick setup or permanent installation.” You need a mount when the dish cannot see enough sky from the ground.
Can you use a Starlink mount from a different dish?
Not across dish families. The Standard 4, Standard 4 X and Enterprise share mounts, while Mini and Performance mounts are each “not compatible with other kits.” One bridge Starlink sells is the $43 adapter that puts a Standard 4 or 4 X on a mount made for the older Standard Actuated dish.
Can you mount Starlink on a PVC pipe?
Starlink says no for the Standard, V5 and Performance adapters. The Performance guide’s wording is “ONLY INTENDED TO BE USED WITH METAL PIPES, NOT PVC AND PLASTIC PIPES,” and the Standard and V5 guides carry the same rule. The Mini guide does not address pipe material.
What size pole does the Starlink Pipe Adapter fit?
For the Standard 4 and 4 X, a metal pole from 31 mm (1.25 in) to 63.5 mm (2.5 in) across. The V5 and Mini adapters stop at 50 mm (2 in), and the Performance adapter fits 38 mm (1.5 in) to 60 mm (2.4 in).
Is the Starlink Ridgeline Mount worth $250?
Only if drilling is off the table. It is more than four times the price of the Pivot Mount, it weighs about 31 kg as packaged, mount and ballast together, and its 80 kph (50 mph) wind rating is lower than the Standard 4 X’s operational figure. For a rented home or a roof under warranty, that trade can still be the right one.
Where do you buy Starlink mounts?
From the Starlink Shop, once you have ordered a kit. Starlink’s help page says mounts are “available for purchase on the Starlink Shop once your Starlink Kit is ready to ship,” and its accessory guides say “Available to purchase after receiving your order confirmation email.”
Starlink’s pages disagree on whether you can browse first. Its shop help article says “To view products and pricing, you’ll need to sign in to your Starlink account.” On October 12, 2026, the public shop page showed products and prices for each dish with no sign-in.
Which mount to buy
Match the dish first, then the surface. For a Standard 4 or 4 X on a shingle roof, the $60 Pivot Mount is the default. Take the $67 Wall Mount if your overhang is 4 inches or less and the wall has a clear view. Use the $38 Pipe Adapter if a metal pole or J-mount is already there. Pay $250 for the Ridgeline Mount only when you cannot drill. V5 owners buy the $40 Home Mount and keep the pipe adapter from the box. Mini owners should try the kickstand and the included pipe adapter before spending anything.
Sources (19)
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: Do I need a mount?
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: Can I use third-party mounts with my Starlink?
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: Are there RV mount options?
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: How do I remove the kickstand mount?
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: Starlink V5 Home Mount Setup Guide
- starlink.com Standard Accessories Guide (PDF)
- starlink.com Mini Accessories Guide (PDF)
- starlink.com V5 Accessories Guide (PDF)
- starlink.com Performance Accessories Guide (PDF)
- starlink.com Starlink Shop: Standard 4 X accessories
- starlink.com Starlink Shop: Starlink V5 accessories
- starlink.com Starlink Shop: Mini accessories
- starlink.com Starlink Shop: Performance (Gen 3) accessories
- starlink.com Standard 4 X Specification Sheet (PDF)
- dishytech.com Starlink Mounting Options
- dishytech.com Guide To Using A J-Mount With Starlink
- proxicast.com Pro-Grade J-Max antenna mount (ANT-800-JP2)
- starlink.com V5 Specification Sheet (PDF)
- starlink.com Starlink Help Center: What is the Starlink Shop?
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